ON THE ROAD | The London somms in Spain
Last month, Elton Muco, deputy head sommelier at our London club, travelled to Rioja and Ribera del Duero with two other members of the team, Kirsty McCulloch and Ranjeet Shirke, to visit the properties of the venerable Marqués de Vargas. Elton and Ranjeet shared their reflections on their return.
‘Marqués de Vargas’ history goes back to 1840, when Don Felipe De la Mata, the eighth Marqués de Vargas, first planted vineyards at his Hacienda Pradolagar in Rioja Alta, in the heart of the Ebro valley,’ says Elton. ‘So it was pretty special to be hosted by his descendant, the 13th Marqués de Vargas, Don Pelayo de la Mata, at the sister winery he has developed in Ribera del Duero, Conde De San Cristobal (left).
‘The Marqués purchased the property in 2000 – 80ha in Penafiel, the heart of the region, 880m above sea level, all planted to Tempranillo – or Tinto Fino as they call it here. It was fascinating to learn how the complex composition of the seven different soil types, together with the various altitudes and orientation of the planting, combine to produce wines packed with such personality.’
Ranjeet was particularly taken by the San Cristóbal Reserva Especial 2019. ‘Aged for 18-20 months in French oak, it’s super concentrated, with a profound aroma of fresh dark fruits and mineral undertones. On the palate, it’s robust, flavourful, rich and expressive.’
‘In Rioja,’ says Elton, ‘the property covers 60ha and, as well as Tempranillo, it’s planted with Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano and Maturana, farmed without any kind of herbicide or pesticide, vinified by individual plots, aged in French oak, and bottled without clarification or filtering. Ana Barrón, the head winemaker, has done an outstanding job in delivering wines of such elegance, with noble tannins, freshness and character.’
Ranjeet was particularly drawn to the 2017 Selección Privada. ‘This was my favourite – it has this concentrated black fruit, with herbal, peppery and sweet spice notes, but soft tannins, a silky texture and an elegant, lingering finish. Really impressive.’
‘Visiting the two regions together really brought home their differences,’ added Ranjeet. ‘The Rioja wines were elegant, subtle and complex, with a harmonious balance of fruit and oak, while the Ribera del Duero wines were more robust, with intense fruit flavours, deep colour and a bold structure.’
The Verbier club will be hosting a drop-in tasting of the Marques de Vargas wines on Thursday July 25, while the Marqués himself will be hosting a seven-course paired dinner on the same evening.
WHAT
I’VE
LEARNED
Marc Kent, Boekenhoutskloof
ON
THE
LIST
Elvio Sgaria
IN
THE
VINEYARD
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River