ON THE ROAD | Federico Moccia in Sonoma
In May, our London Head Sommelier joined a UK delegation visiting Sonoma County in California, as a guest of Sonoma County Vintners. He shares his impressions of a whirlwind week
Visiting California in May made for a welcome change from spring in London. That said, the cold starts and misty mornings served as a reminder that Sonoma’s climate is cool by California standards, characterised by moderate yet intense sunlight during the day, and significant coastal influence. So the wines tend to marry concentrated fruit with fresh acidity and minerality – qualities that distinguish them from the richer wines of the Napa Valley down the road.
What struck me most was the attention being paid by winemakers to foliage and grape health in the vineyard, something that is key to yielding intense, juicy wines that maintain elegance without becoming jammy or overripe. And while Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the stars here, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel also have distinctive characters, reflective of Sonoma’s diverse terroirs.
Among the highlights from a packed itinerary were Cobb Wines, Freeman Vineyards and Peay Vineyards. All three wineries are located in a cooler, coastal spot, yielding rich yet vibrant wines with a fresh acidity and minerality that left a lasting impression. DuMOL and Ernest Vineyards impressed too. Being from the north-west of the county, towards the coast, these are also cool-climate wines that maintain texture and terroir character but also an energetic freshness. And comparing Pinot Noirs from Joseph Swan Vineyards and Benovia Winery highlighted the depth and complexity of Sonoma’s offerings.
A standout experience was visiting Silver Oak in Alexander Valley (above) a winery that has a particularly strong following in the UK. Tasting older vintages, such as the 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, showcased rich black fruit and well-developed tertiary aromas, indicating even more potential for aging. An old-vine Zinfandel masterclass was equally impressive, featuring high-regarded Zins from Dry Creek Vineyard and Ridge Vineyards. And I loved our visit to Rockpile Winery’s Rockpile Ridge Vineyard (lead photo), where the amphitheatre-like setup at 400 metres’ altitude creates a fantastic microclimate. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel from here are silky smooth, delicately balanced and distinctly Californian.
As for the whites, Arista Winery’s El Diablo Vineyard Chardonnay stood out for its full-bodied smoothness and ripe touch, benefiting from the unique microclimate of the Russian River Valley. And while it wasn’t on the itinerary, I had to sneak off to visit another producer of top-end Chardonnay that has long been on my hitlist – Kistler Vineyards (above). It didn’t disappoint. Known for its meticulous approach, using only first-press wine and plot-by-plot vinification, Kistler produces some of California’s most highly regarded Chardonnay.
The Sonoma County Barrel Auction, an event uniting winemakers and buyers from around the world, was the climax of the week. Although I didn’t manage to secure my dream lot of Joseph Swan Vineyards’ Pinot blend of 50% Trenton Estate and 50% Great Oak, it was a fantastic experience. As I travelled back across the Golden Gate Bridge to San Francisco to fly back to London, the sudden refreshing rain served as a foretaste of what lay in store…
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WHAT
I’VE
LEARNED
Marc Kent, Boekenhoutskloof
ON
THE
LIST
Elvio Sgaria
IN
THE
VINEYARD
Leeuwin Estate, Margaret River