ON THE LIST | Shirley Tan

Shirley Tan’s interest in wine was sparked via the Bachelor’s degree in hospitality that she took at Taylor’s University in her native Malaysia, where ‘the oenology class was the only one in which I was able to stay awake.’ So much so that she joined the university’s Wine & Dine club and embarked on her Wine and Spirit Education Trust exams. After starting out as a trainee in bars and restaurants, she continued to read and study about wine, before taking the opportunity to work as a sommelier in Macau. There, the exposure to a huge range of F&B concepts, from casual oyster and steak houses to Michelin-starred restaurants, built her knowledge further. When she returned to Singapore in January 2022 she joined 67 as Senior Sommelier and has since risen up the ranks to become Deputy Head Sommelier.  

‘My time in Macau, and since then at 67, has given me a particular interest in discovering lesser-known wine regions and varietals. I love wines with lots of complexity, but also wines from more emerging regions, or wines that employ less common winemaking techniques.

‘Take the 2009 Il San Lorenzo, Fattoria San Lorenzo, a rare Verdicchio from Le Marche. It’s only produced in great vintages, and is aged for 12 years (!) in concrete tanks, on its lees, before release. It’s a very structured, complex white – think ripe apricot, mirabelle plum and yellow peach, with a hint of herbaceous character, a crisp acidity and a slight waxy mouthfeel on the finish. It shows good ageing potential and displays the vineyard’s terroir deeply. I particularly enjoy it for its potential to pair well with a wide range of dishes.  

 ‘A recent discovery was the 2021 Chardonnay N28 from Xige Estate in the Helan Mountains, a desert mountain range forming the border between Inner Mongolia’s Alxa League and Ningxia, in China. The wine expresses Chardonnay’s typical ripe orchard and tropical fruits on a rounded and creamy mouthfeel, but is particularly well-balanced, with crisp acidity and stony minerality. Chinese wine is growing on our list – we now boast over 50 labels from different regions and varietals spanning white, red and sweet – and Ningxia is definitely a region to watch.

‘Vinsanto is better known in Italy, but the 2018 Vassaltis Vinsanto is a unusual rendering from Santorini, which piqued my curiosity. There are several theories as to how Vinsanto got its name – some say it’s an abbreviation of ‘vino di Santorini’, while others claim it refers to ‘vino santo’ (‘holy wine’). The first vintage of this version of the sweet wine was only launched a few years ago, in 2017, from a really great, up-and-coming producer, and it’s a blend of 75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri and 10% Aidani. On the palate, it first shows a burst of honey, toffee, caramel, figs, dried orange and raisin flavours, yet still retains a vivacious acidity. It’s great on its own after a meal, or with dessert – and perfect for the upcoming festive season!’

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