IN THE VINEYARD | Domaine des Tourelles, Lebanon
This harvest report from Lebanon’s Domaine des Tourelles is slightly different, and comes slightly late in the season – both for obvious reasons. So what’s it like trying to harvest in a war zone? Owner Faouzi Issa tells us of the challenges they faced this year
‘The war had a major impact on us. We faced daily challenges during the harvest, not least in finding pickers and drivers willing to work under the constant threat of bombs being dropped on the valley. It exposed us to a significant daily risk both of losing life and displacement, on top of the psychological trauma everyone faced.
‘Domaine des Tourelles tends over 80ha of vines, and is rooted eternally in the Bekaa Valley, whatever the political backdrop. We love our land even more during these times; don’t ask me how and from where, but we get energy and ambition during these tough times. You need a bad day to appreciate a good day, and this is the motto that kept us going during the conflict.
‘The two weeks at the end of September, when fighting was at its most intense, was the most dangerous time. We were in the middle of the harvest, and we could hear rockets coming near the vineyard while we were picking. The nearest explosion was a kilometre away from the winery. We know we are not the target, but unfortunately collateral damage is often the outcome.
‘The biggest issue was that we couldn’t send our pick-ups to collect the grapes. Covered trucks transporting grapes could be mistaken for trucks carrying ammunition. There are probably hundreds of surveillance drones flying all over Lebanon, and the noise they make can’t be missed. It becomes a nightmare for us – those drones can hit and bomb any suspicious move…
‘It’s funny, but taking such risks, initially you are stressed, but then it becomes easier. You adapt. Or at least I did. But the biggest challenge was motivating the team, both emotionally and psychologically.
‘It was challenging to get the staff to the winery. Think about it. You work for a company, and there is a war on. More likely than not, you will tell the company that you’re not going to work because you don’t want to take the risk. And you have the right to do so. Some people are more anxious than others, and I had to try and motivate the team. I had to be first in the winery and last to leave. And I had to be with them and take the risk with them, and to show them that we were not the target.
‘Thankfully, we didn’t have any employees who lost their home, but many of them displaced themselves because of the risk in their neighbourhood.
‘I’m happy about the ceasefire, and that the weapons and the bombs are put aside. But what’s next? We don’t have a government. We don’t have a president. Thousands of buildings are down, there are thousands of displaced people. Our local market died during the conflict, but our overseas partners were really, really supportive, and our export sales doubled. They understood that we are outsiders in this war, and all we care about is to have a sustainable business, helping us, and the families of the 78 staff who depend on us, to survive.
‘As Lebanese people, we are genetically modified to cope, absorb and overcome these challenges. It is ingrained in us to look at the positive side. But we want the beautiful Lebanon back. The Lebanon of blue skies, big mountains, fertile lands, rich culture and fascinating history. And the Lebanon that has peaceful relations with everyone.’
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