Grange – the Australian Icon
People occasionally ask us why Grange is such an outstanding wine – why is it so special and why does it have such a strong reputation?
During the first Australian National University Wine Symposium in Canberra in 1979, Max Schubert, Penfolds first Chief Winemaker, stated “I would like to express the hope that the production and acceptance of Grange… as a great Australian wine has proved that we in Australia are capable of producing wines equal to the best in the world. But we must not be afraid to put into effect the strength of our own convictions, continue to use our imagination in winemaking generally, and be prepared to experiment in order to gain something extra, different and unique in the world of wine.”
These words ring true with winemakers across the globe. It seems unimaginable that Max Schubert gave away almost all of the 1800 bottles made in his first vintage, 1951, especially given that in 2017 a bottle of the same vintage sold at auction for AU$51,750 (although it is certainly worth noting that Port and Sherry were the tipples of choice at the time).
Since the 1970s, Grange has ‘led the pack’ in building a powerful international image for Australian wine. It is also remarkably consistent – Grange is made each year in very confined quantities from a certain style of rich and intense fruit grown on Penfolds’ vineyards and bought from independent growers. Penfolds meticulously pick and choose their grapes with sheer ruthlessness, and the inherent quality of Grange is protected at every stage once these selected grapes arrive at the winery.
Back in July 2016, we welcomed Penfolds’ current chief winemaker, Member and friend, Peter Gago for a Masterclass dinner that Members still talk about in the Club today. The evening featured two vintage expressions of three of Penfolds’ classic wines. Peter had just completed his 27th vintage with Penfolds, and in many ways is the embodiment and personification of the careful custodianship that has ensured that Grange has continued to set the benchmark.
Additionally, in the same year, we hosted a ‘wine check service’ for Members who owned a bottle of Penfolds (Grange or otherwise) that was at least 15 year’s old. We saw some outstanding bottles being carried under-arm into the St James’s Room, where the Penfolds wine experts were eagerly waiting to visually inspect the bottles, assess the quality, top-up if appropriate, certify and re-capsule. We saw some incredibly rare Grange being passed around the room like an unattainable trophy. This really was the best kind of wine MOT…
Emmanuel, our Deputy Head Sommelier, mentioned to me that only four winemakers have ever been in charge of the production of Grange, and it is with deep pride that at 67 Pall Mall is home to eight vintages up to 1973. Emmanuel shared this outstanding featured image of the bottles with great enthusiasm, as we continue to show our appreciation and support for this pioneering Australian estate.