CRITIC’S CORNER | Jasper Morris MW
Jasper Morris MW was recently inducted into the Golden Vines Hall of Fame, following in the footsteps of Aubert de Villaine, Istvan Szepsy and Jancis Robinson MW. He tells us why he feels – despite the accolade – that an oversized ego is the enemy of fine wine, be it on the part of producers, merchants or writers
When I think of the most significant influences on my career, five stand out. The merchant Harry Waugh, who was a natural wine taster and helped me form my then very juvenile palate. Tony Verdin, with whom I went into partnership as a wine importer back in 1981, and with whom I developed a real taste for Burgundy before it was in fashion. Simon Berry, whose company Berry Bros & Rudd purchased mine in 2003, and who went onto publish my book, Inside Burgundy. The incredible Becky Wasserman, who was such an extraordinary influence on me and so many wine producers, importers and Burgundy lovers in general. And my wife Abigail, who tolerates me and lets me pursue my everlasting love affair with wine.
All these people have one thing in common – a lack of ego. And in the wine world, that is very important to me.
I have been fortunate enough to meet a great number of wonderful producers around the world who have managed to transform their grapes and terroirs into beautiful wines, without allowing their egos, if indeed they have them to any significant degree, to derail them, or to be present in their wines.
'The cult of the Burgundy grower
JASPER MORRIS MW
as a demi-god is dangerous'
Equally, when I worked as a merchant, my aim was also to translate those beautiful wines, whether of lowly origin and price or from famous estates, by finding homes for them in the cellars of wine lovers who would appreciate those specific tastes. But I would never try to bully somebody into buying a wine just because I could make money by selling it.
And in my more recent career as a wine writer, I want to introduce people to well-made wines, great and small, to share the knowledge I have been so fortunate to build up over the decades, to help people in their choices, but not to dictate. There is no place for an outsize ego in wine writing any more than there is in winemaking or wine sales.
Some winemakers are born with a massive ego and that’s never going to change. Others can be egotistical early on when they’re trying to prove themselves, and then, once you reach a certain stage, it’s much easier to be relaxed about things, because you know you’ve earned your place, and you get on and do the job without worrying about promoting yourself.
The worst are those producers who develop an ego – who make the mistake of believing their own publicity. That’s when they take their eye off the ball. Prices go up and attention to detail goes down. You’re constantly getting people saying, ‘Oh gosh, you make the best wines, we can’t get hold of them but we’re desperate to come and see you, and maybe can we buy some – we’ll pay whatever you ask.’ That’s the trap.
For all that the stamp of the vigneron is crucial to the nature of a wine, we should resist the temptation to place the growers on pedestals, investing them with hero status. They are human beings like the rest of us; some are better at the job than others, and all are just as capable of making mistakes from time to time as they are of moments of sublime achievement when everything comes together as it should.
Leaving aside the obvious development of knowledge and expertise, winemakers are just as susceptible to the ups and downs of life as any other human being. There may be a rocky patch after the break-up of a relationship or a mid-life crisis, perhaps even a new style when a new partner influences some change in techniques.
The cult of the grower as a demi-god in his or her right is dangerous, and not healthy. It’s not good for them, and most of them, in Burgundy at least, don’t actually like it. I can only really speak for Burgundy but I do feel the symptom is less prevalent here than it is in other places. I’m pleased that so many – though not all – manage to stay level-headed.
In the writing sphere, some names have also become very influential, and the danger then is that critics want to try to shape the market. We’ve seen that in Burgundy with previously unheard of mini-negociants coming to prominence overnight, off the back of very high scores, and suddenly their wines are trading at $500 or $1,000 a bottle. The problem then is that the market starts to think that it’s the producers themselves who are pushing those prices up, when in fact it’s bad actors in the middle trying to make as much money as possible – which is not the reason why the wines were made.
There are definitely wine writers who are looking to promote their power in the industry, and you can understand why – it’s a sort of KPI if you’re at the start of your career. But because of the age and stage I’m at, I just want to do a good job and be valued for that, rather than cultivating a ‘Jasper Says’ approach. Ultimately, I see my role as to inform rather than to dictate, and I’m very happy doing so.
Jasper Morris MW will be hosting a Paulée style Burgundy dinner in the London Club to celebrate En Primeur Week on Wednesday 15th January
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