CRITIC’S CORNER | Jane Anson
Bordeaux-based Jane Anson has been covering the wines of the region for 20 years, initially as Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent and now for her own website. A regular presence around our clubs, Jane gives us her take on the 2023 vintage, now coming to market en primeur
The 2023 vintage was never going to have the wow factor of 2022. But it is a reminder of what Bordeaux excels in – effortless construction and well-balanced wines that are made to delight over the long term. Not everywhere has succeeded, but there are hundreds of bottles that will provide much pleasure and are worth tracking down. This is even more true now that the prices are coming out, with several notable reductions – although, after the punchy prices of 2021 and 2022, many producers are still having trouble convincing sceptical buyers.
There is an enjoyable Left Bank-Right Bank distinction in this vintage, that was sometimes less clear last year given 2022’s overall ripeness of fruit. Last year, almost every wine was extremely deeply coloured, whatever the terroir, and whether 1st wine or 2nd wine. It gave an immediately impressive look to the wines, but there was less distinction between appellations and estates. Personally, I welcome a return to a more nuanced, terroir- and estate-driven feel.
‘In many ways, the 2023 vintage is the vintage that 2021 desperately wanted to be’
Jane Anson
In terms of where it sits within the Bordeaux pantheon, it is certainly not up there with 2016 or 2009/2010. I don’t think the 2020s have yet had their vintage of the decade – at least I hope not, because as I say, I have reservations over the 2022s. In many ways I feel that 2023 is the vintage that 2021 desperately wanted to be. There are balanced alcohols almost everywhere, particularly on the Left Bank, but whereas in 2021 the wines lacked structure and were in some cases dilute, here the long ripening (when not impacted by mildew or heat spikes according to terroir) gave beautifully ripe fruits, plenty of density through the palate and firm tannic architecture, allowing for wines that will undoubtedly age well. That said, in general, there will be no need to wait too long for these to be ready, particularly on the Left Bank.
One other defining feature – you’ll find the word ‘inky’ or ‘squid ink’ in my tasting notes more than usual, because it was far more striking in this vintage than usual, almost invariably for Cabernet-dominant wines (also true on the Right Bank in wines such as L’Eglise Clinet). It’s a taste that comes with a texture, and a feeling of umami, as well as a soft, saline edge.
I don’t think this year will be a huge commercial success, despite the price drops, but I do think it is one that people will keep rediscovering, and that will bring the kind of pleasure that vintages like 2001 have done over the decades. It’s worth noting, though, that in a vintage like 2023, there is a big difference between those châteaux that have succeeded, and those that have struggled. I hope that by tasting around 800 wines from across the region, I can steer you to the right bottles.
Read Jane’s full En Primeur 2023 Report on her site – and use the code SAVE10 during checkout for a 10% discount on a first-year subscription www.janeanson.com/subscribe
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