An Italian thoroughbred at 67 Pall Mall, by Richard Hemming MW
The great Tuscan reds of Tenuta San Guido shine at a masterclass dinner hosted by the estate’s third generation
“Sorry, but I’ve got to make him jealous”, my neighbour at the table told me, before quickly snapping the forest of Zaltos that stood before us. On the foot of each glass was written the shorthand for what was about to be poured: G16, G09, G06, S09, S02, S95. She smiled innocently and said, “that’s what photos are for, right?”
The recipient of her photo was a devoted fan of the G and S we were about to drink, which are indeed some of Tuscany’s most enviable wines: Guidalberto and Sassicaia, the two flagship reds from the pioneering Tenuta San Guido.
The road to a bespoke appellation
Nearly 70 years ago, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon vines on the family farm in Bolgheri, close to the Tuscan coast. His objective was to create a wine with the same thoroughbred credentials as the racehorses for which the San Guido estate was already renowned. The choice of variety was inspired by the great clarets of Bordeaux, whose gravel soils resembled those at San Guido – the name Sassicaia means ‘stony ground’ – but nobody had tried growing Cabernet Sauvignon in Tuscany before.
At another table, on her debut visit to 67 Pall Mall, Mario’s granddaughter Priscilla now stood up to address the St James Room, full to capacity on a wet February evening. The initial vintages were not well received, she told us, but Mario remained convinced of the quality potential. For nearly 20 years the wine was made with no commercial intention, but when the 1968 vintage was finally released to the market, it soon gained a reputation as one of Italy’s greatest reds.
So much so that in 1994 Sassicaia was awarded its own bespoke appellation – the only Italian wine to be so honoured, and a vindication of the vision of Priscilla’s grandfather. Guidalberto was introduced as a second wine in 2000, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that is made to mature earlier than its senior sibling.
Le Difese 2016
Alongside a four-course dinner, three vintages of Guidalberto and Sassicaia were to be served, after a palate-whetting aperitivo of Gimmonet champagne. First came Le Difese 2016 in magnum, the only wine San Guido make with Sangiovese, the paterfamilias of Tuscan grapes that powers Chianti. It constitutes 30% of the blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon making up the rest.
Pairing this with a salad of prosciutto, sour cherries and rocket was especially deft because the middle ingredient is a textbook descriptor for the flavour of Sangiovese. The youthful red fruit of Le Difese matched the sour cherries seamlessly, with its simple palate and light body setting the scene for what was to come next.
Guidalberto 2016 and 2009
The second course paired meatballs and polenta with two vintages of Guidalberto – the 2016 and 2009, again from magnum. Both wines are a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, matured for 15 months in French and American oak barrels. Consequently, the concentration and richness is a big step up from Le Difese, graduating from featherweight to welterweight, and fully meriting its heartier accompaniment.
Guidalberto 2016 is spicy and fragrant with bittersweet blackcurrant fruit, but a lightness of touch which perhaps reflects the coolness of the vintage. Whereas, at nearly ten years old, Guidalberto 2009 is intriguing and complete, with an earthy beetroot and fennel character that made a fine match for the succulence and brawn of the meatballs. The full body and supple tannins have reached the ideal stage for drinking now, with ample dark fruit supporting the emerging earthiness.
Comparing Guidalberto 2006 with its younger siblings reinforced that view. This vintage had perhaps begun to fade, with leather and liquorice and woodspice upstaging the receding fruit. Served with two generous hunks of venison, roasted to a perfect dark pink bloodiness, the wine risked being overwhelmed by the richness of the meat. Such indulgent ungratefulness was, however, immediately assuaged by the Sassicaia 2009 that was poured at the same time. The long shadow of Bordeaux was immediately apparent in its cedar, blackcurrant and sweet spice aromas. Like the best clarets, it is only just coming of age in its tenth year, with enough tannic heft and flavour concentration to age for another decade.
Sassicaia 2002 and 1995
For the final course, a trio of Italian cheese was served family-style with the two headline acts of the night: Sassicaia 2002 and 1995. Both had achieved wonderful bottle-aged complexity, with the younger of the two all mushrooms and moss on the nose yet retaining vigorous fruit and grainy tannins on the palate, while the 1995 was earthier, with fruit that tasted dried and hung, and a ferrous element adding an almost carnivorous dimension to the length.
Strong parmesan, pecorino and gorgonzola were always going to be a challenging match with dry red of any quality, and their pungency and sharpness contrasted rather than complemented the wine. Perhaps one day, San Guido will make a Sauternes-style sticky to please this picky palate.
In the meantime, their reds have capably fulfilled the ambition to produce wines that bear comparison with the greatest Cabernets of Bordeaux – wines to inspire jealousy; true Tuscan thoroughbreds.
About the author
Richard Hemming MW is a wine writer, educator, and a Master of Wine based in London. He made his name when he started working with Jancis Robinson MW in 2008. This collaboration has led him to write for a number of high-profile publications such as Decanter, Financial Times and The Drinks Business. He is a 67 Pall Mall member, often found at the clubroom bar with a glass of northern Rhône Syrah nearby.
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